Clean, green and serene

Of all the Balearic islands, Menorca is the most laid back. Although tourism is its major source of income, there is very little in-your-face commercialism. Jo Bayne decided it was her kind of place

Menorca’s attractions speak for themselves. Sun, sea and beautiful beaches are the most obvious, but there is also a wealth of history, colourful legends, good food and wine, exotic flora and fauna and dramatic caves formed from the limestone bedrock.

What also struck us was how clean everywhere is. And no-one seems in a hurry, although service is excellent. The afternoon is siesta time after which shops, cafés and entertainments will be open almost for as long as you want through the evening and into the night.

Menorca is only 45km from east to west and 19km north to south and has just one major road which runs like a spine from the present capital of Mahón, or Maó, on the east coast, to the old capital Cuitadella on the west.

The island’s coastline is so deeply indented with little coves and gorges that a perimeter coast road is impossible – with the advantage that coastal resorts are never spoilt by traffic.

Despite its size, there is a marked difference in the geography between north and south Menorca. The southern coves and beaches are mostly gentle, grassy slopes and aromatic scrub meeting golden sand, whereas parts of the north have dramatic cliffs and often a bracing but pleasant breeze.

Which makes Fornells, in the north, a paradise for yachtsmen, surfers, and wind surfers. It’s also a pretty but unpretentious port where you can sample lobster, one of the island’s gastronomic specialities, at its freshest.

The Menorcans will tell you that sea breezes are good for the environment: they clean the air in keeping with the island’s status as an official UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, awarded in 1993. This is about creating sustainable development – including controlling the design and spread of holiday complexes – as well as looking after wildlife and landscape.

Although Menorca has escaped the high rise scourge that has affected some Spanish costas and parts of Mallorca, it does have some monstrosities that are far too large for the bays they sit in. Menorca will be demolishing at least three of them over the next few years and its remaining unspoilt coastline is now largely protected.