Take the road out of town to the plain of Famara, a wide expanse of desert. In the distance is the fishing village of La Caleta de Famara – tiny, unspoilt and popular with the young and fit who surf the wild water of Famara Bay. If surfing’s not quite your scene, you can walk for miles along the sands enjoying views of Isla Graciosa, and round the bay to the village of Sóo.

From La Caleta to Tinajo and then on to to Uga, you’ll pass through dramatic scenery – desert edge pounded by Atlantic surf with the cliffs of Famara behind, and the peaks of Mount Timanfaya in the foreground, and then a craggy, black volcanic landscape criss-crossed with tiny stone walls which protect the growing vines. (The region produces some fine wines – El Grifo is the biggest and best known vineyard). Roadside bars and bodegas off the beaten track here are good. They have the best steak, served with a local red, or a selection of tapas with a crisp, dry white.

Through hills and past the pretty town of Yaiza (Restaurante La Era, restored by César Manrique, serves the speciality salt fish and other typical Canarian dishes – recommended), take the old road to El Golfo, a village with more good fish restaurants. Park here to walk along the coastal footpath, or head south to Los Hervidores (literal meaning: boiling springs) where the ocean pounds into caves. You can stroll through walkways which twist their way through the lava.

Travelling south

Travelling south along the old road towards Playa Blanca, there's a 'playa' sign to the right: this road becomes rugged dirt track down to a little known beach where the pebbles are black – the only one on the island with black 'sand' and a striking contrast to the white surf.

Swimmers, however, should move on to Playa Blanca where the beaches are safe, or go further along to the Papagayo peninsula, an unspoilt landscape protected from development (which none the less has reached the very edge of the protected zone) and much praised in guide books. The beaches here are beautiful, but become crowded when the catamarans and boat trips from Puerto del Carmen arrive.

For panoramic views, take the road to Femes, and continue through the mountain pass to the main road.

Another great route is from Teguise towards Haria, through a gentle, clean, fresh landscape. Once you’re on the main road, head for the farming area of Los Valles. As you start to climb out of the valley towards the mountains of Haria, there’s a hairpin bend and, on the right hand side, a bar called Mirador Los Valles. Sit under a shady coconut parasol with a cool beer and enjoy the fabulous scenery, or linger on for lunch – local cuisine at local prices.

Tear yourself away from the bar and drive on towards Hari, a pretty village amongst palm trees, then to Mirador del Rio. The road round the northern tip of the island twists and turns its way through the mountains, with spectacular views. Drive up to Orzola and gaze at the ocean – calm or restless. It's good to sit by the harbour wall and watch the boats. Travelling back down the coast, there are pockets of soft white sand and safe water where, with a mountain backdrop, you can swim and sunbathe in private amongst the dunes. Fortunately, these little discovered beaches are rarely crowded.

South from Arieta turn off the road at Mala and drive out to the rocky peninsula where there's a ladder in the rock face. Climb down this to a perfect pool enclosed by rocky outcrops. It is a naturist spot but also popular with scuba divers because the water is deep, and the rock face like black twisted coral. You don't have to be a naturist to swim here, but you do have to respect the privacy of those who are.

Words and pictures by Cheryl Everitt