In Bergamo, make for the walled hilltop mediaeval centre to feast on ancient buildings and art. In Brescia, head for its impressive Roman ruins, while in Cremona, home of Stradivarius, wonder at the art of violin making, still alive today. For serenity, go to Mantua but avoid its outlying industrial sprawl. In Como, apart from yet more shopping, you can see baroque, gothic, romanesque and renaissance construction in one building – the cathedral.
All of the big towns have nightclubs and casinos, but these are set up for young people in the first instance, and middle-aged people with too much spare cash in the second. For most, the greatest pleasure is to be found in the views, the people and the peace, particularly during weekdays. The food, though sometimes expensive, is another great draw – particularly the lakefish. When we return, I’m going to seek out our patient waiter and tell him that I now know that the lakefish are alborelle. They’re found only in Lake Como – and very tasty when grilled and served with a light, garlicky sauce.