Diani Beach has its share of holiday crowds dozing under thatched parasols, but not far to the south, smaller resorts offer a quieter family getaway.

Our villa was delightful, enhanced by our own chef who happily cooked the children's favourite meals. Meanwhile, we feasted on prawns, Swahili-style, flavoured with tamarind, ginger and lime. Fresh mangoes always graced our table, though we never managed to try all 24 varieties.

Even so, despite the wonderful beaches, it's hard to resist a few days in the Tsavo National Park. It's near the coast, and en route is a thorn-enclosed Masai village. Tribal dancers entertained us with amazing leaps. We weren't so succesful at lighting a fire by rubbing sticks though. Threading beads with the women was easier.

Our first animal sighting was a baby giraffe but most common are elephants, covered in red dust, which our young daughter, Kate, faithfully drew in her diary. This was education at its best. She loved it all, from hippos and bushbabies on the night safari to lions quenching their thirst at dusk.

The park is in two parts: Tsavo East, mostly savanna and scrub, and Tsavo West, green dramatic hills, gushing springs and views of Kilimanjaro.

Time out on safari is well spent, but after the heat and dust of the bush, the ocean is bliss – sea, sun and sand, and yet more wildlife as a bonus.

For a change, join a guided walk in the Diani rainforest and you'll see rare Colobus monkeys preening their black and white silky coats. Or sail down the Tiwi river where, in late afternoon, white pelicans land noisily in the tree tops, among laughing ibises and woolly-necked storks.

On the northern outskirts of Mombasa, Haller Park is a wonderful place to view animals at close quarters – a good alternative to a safari. It's an old quarry, landscaped into a tropical forest. Within, you'll find a crocodile and fish farm, a snake park and giant tortoises, giraffes, antelopes and hippos. They all roam semi-free in a natural environment.

Next door, Bamburi forest has a Butterfly Pavilion, plus walking and cycling trails. And the Nguuni Sanctuary organises bird walks and visits to the ostrich farm. If your kids are mad about crocs, head for Mamba, one of Africa's largest crocodile farms.

Beach and game aside, we loved the Bombolulu Cultural Centre and its head-spinning kaleidoscope of colours and sounds. In the traditional homesteads, you sample the culture of just a few of the 42 local tribes, complete with witch doctor, drummers and dancers.