Further north, beyond the yachts bobbing at anchor in Kilifi Creek, Malindi is a centre for package tours – but its vast sweeping bay has room for everyone.

The old town retains a touch of African flavour, ochre-coloured walls along the lanes, domes and minarets glowing among the flame trees. Nearby attractions include a falconry, butterfly farm and Kenya Marineland. This can be combined with a traditional dhow trip along the Mtwapa Creek.

A stone's throw away, the ruined Swahili city of Gedi will captivate culture fans and children in search of ghosts and spooky stories. Take time to enjoy Watamu, Malindi's quiet neighbour. You'll find turquoise waters speckled with castaway islands and secluded coves where turtles come to nest.

Looking out to the Marine Parks, you might think you've reached paradise, but there's more to explore if you wish. Lamu Island claims Kenya's finest beach and a mediaeval town hardly changed through the centuries. Only the clatter of donkeys echoes through the streets. Laden with produce, they trot past carved doorways and plant-filled courtyards.

You don't need to stray far from your villa for a glimpse of country life. You'll see women in vivid clothes tending maize or fetching water from the well, babies asleep on their back, cows, goats and a scattering of thatched huts among mango and papaya trees.

Swahili villages are dotted all along the coast. It's different in Mombasa. Visitors tend to avoid the city but shopping is a good reason to visit. Another is the overwhelming culture shock – a vibrant mix of Arab, Asian and African life.

In this ancient gateway to East Africa, we were soon addicted to markets. There's Mackinnon, brimming with exotic fruit, and the Floating Market, whose craft stalls line the Tudor Creek. Best buys are fabrics and sisal baskets, tribal jewellery, white soapstone ornaments, colourful wrap-around kikoi for the beach, and woodcarvings.

Beyond the new town, lanes climb to Fort Jesus, the coral stone fortress built by the Portuguese in the 16th century. There are good views over the old town and the harbour, where stately dhows offer luxury cruises and romantic dinners.

Meanwhile, as palms rustle in the setting sun, the Likoni ferry sets off across the water, a seething mass of humanity and a sprinkling of visitors fresh from the plane, dreaming of white sands and a turquoise sea. 'Karibu', welcome to Kenya.